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Wildersmith on the Gunflint

Fred Smith
Fred Smith, a native Iowan re-located to the wilderness of border country at the end of the century, has been writing of happenings in the upper Gunflint territory for going on eight years, first with the local paper, and since December 2008 for WTIP North Shore Community Radio. Fred feels life in the woods is extraordinary, and finds reporting on it to both a reading and listening audience a pleasurable challenge. Since retirement as a high school athletic administrator from Ankeny High School, Ankeny Iowa in 1999, the pace of Fred's life has become less hectic but nevertheless, remains busy in new ways with many volunteer activities along the Trail. Listen at your convenience by subscribing to a podcast.

Arts, cultural and history features on WTIP are made possible in part by funding from the Minnesota Arts and Cultural Heritage Fund. Check out other programs and features funded in part with support from the Heritage Fund.


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Wildersmith_Photo by Fran Smith

Wildersmith on the Gunflint - June 28

Wildersmith on the Gunflint      by     Fred Smith
June 28, 2019  
June has been in a tail spin, winding down to conclusion as the first full week of summer is into the books.                                                                                                                                    

Welcoming July, the universe is within days of reaching the half way point in the year nineteen. It would seem we need not be reminded, but America celebrates its two hundred forty-third birthday before we meet again on the radio. Hopefully, all citizens can come around for at least one day of peace and togetherness!                                                                                                

Speaking further of July 4th Gunflint Trail residents will always remember this day of infamous weather conduct across the territory. Many are already reflecting the day twenty years ago when the evil “derecho” changed the forest and lives for decades, if not forever.      While “Mother Nature” is hard at work in regeneration, folks who endured the terror will never forget the day several hundred thousand acres of forest were flattened beyond belief. We cannot celebrate the event, but cherish the thought there were no fatalities in spite of many injuries. Celebration is in order however, as we remember and give thanks for the hundreds of acts of heroism during this tragic time in Gunflint History.                                                          

Times of reverence and remembering can be shared at Chik-Wauk over the next couple weeks by visiting the Nature Center where many residents have preserved memories of the “Blowdown.”  In addition, there will be video reflections documenting the aftermath.                                                                                                                                                                                       

In the interest of the Gunflint Community Spirit, it would be nice to take a moment in the early afternoon of July 4th to commemorate the day a forest story was rewritten.                                               

Speaking of the forest in another vane, June has not been too kind to the upper Trail in terms of precipitation allotments. Feeder streams have slowed to a trickle and lake levels have been dropping.                                                                                                                                                                                 
The landscape was getting pretty dry until the heavens finally opened up with a timely dose last Sunday. It was a billion dollar rain in terms of tempering wild fire danger, and in this neighborhood, it happened with no lightning or strong winds to compromise wild land character.                                                                                                                                                               

Meanwhile temps have been just delightful, making for some spectacular days and cool comfy nights. The moose and I can only wish this to continue as our day light minutes start dwindling toward fall.                                                                                                                                          
Many activities are on tap up at the end of the Trail Museum Campus. The Nature Center programming continues Sunday at 2:00 pm. This week features David Hakensen of the MNHS. Mr. Hakensen will present stories about the Hoover’s (Helen & Ade) and their life on Gunflint Lake. Author, Helen is remembered for her books reflecting times in un-organized territory.                                                                                                                                                                     

Further scheduling for the week includes the regular Tuesday “Kids’ Day (11 to 4:00); The USFS Tuesday presentation at 2:00; and of course, the temporary “Blowdown” exhibit mentioned earlier.                                                                                                                                                           
Folks will want to mark their calendar for the next Sunday, July 7 for the grand opening celebration of the Watercraft Exhibit Building at Chik-Wauk from 11:00am to 4:00 pm. Cake, Coffee and Lemonade to be served.                                                                                                                      

Whereas wild neighborhood animal activity has been quiet around Wildersmith, I’m elated to say the black fly assaults have seemingly diminished. However, nipping critter activity is building among the mosquito forces. And to take itching matters to the next level, “no seeums” AKA “punkies” or “midges” will soon add to our itching irritation, even through our screened windows.                                                                                                                                                                        

Another biting bug trivia tells there are up to100 species of “no seeums” in North America. It makes me wonder how entomologists know this, if one cannot “seeum?” How can we be so blessed?                                                                                                                                                           

For WTIP, this is Wildersmith, on the Gunflint Trail, where every day is great, as we delight in natural connections!


Bear Photo by Fran Smith.jpg

Wildersmith on the Gunflint - June 21

Wildersmith on the Gunflint     by      Fred Smith     June 21, 2019    
It’s timely the Gunflint Trail is finally fully engulfed in summer as we celebrate the Solstice. Once green with envy of other places already into the summertime look, the territory has caught up.                                                                                                                                                         

The quiet charm of back country roads is never more evident than passing through one of our green tunnels of trees. Like many other off-trail pathways, the Mile O Pine is regal in the shade of its emerald crowned canopy with occasional spears of sunshine spotting one’s way.         

Recently, I read an interesting article telling of a two decade body of research supporting the idea that trees have a calming effect on humans. Whereas we who reside in the forest already know of these behavioral phenomena, any numbers of places where blighted areas have been “cleaned and greened” are showing remarkable reductions in unacceptable societal activities.                                                                                                                                                                               

So even though the cause and effect would seem rather difficult to grasp, it’s hard to argue trees are not critically important. Beyond lakes and challenging terrain, perhaps trees are the major reason so many folks find this place so enticing; picture a canoe, calm water and trees, a zillion of them!                                                                                                                                                                   

One more note regarding the woods around us, as the leaf out is now complete, I continue fascinated by the candles of new growth on red and white pines. It seems these aspiring buds to branches might add an inch per day, and soon will be upwards of a foot or more further toward the heavens by summers end. Do you suppose one could hear them grow during darkness hours as Ag people claim of their corn on hot summer nights?                                                 

After twenty years of life in border country, I still marvel at those Canadian sunsets over Gunflint Lake, as do many others in the Gunflint Community along their favorite lake shore. However, I must confess being no longer in the mandatory work force, I do not often rise with the birds to greet a new days dawning.                                                                                                                                       
Unusual as it may seem, I happened awake last Sunday morning to see a most spectacular sunrise. It might even parallel the grandeur of those memorable day ending scenes. With just the right convergence of gauzy clouds, “Sol” set the heavens on fire, from its eastern most point of entry as far as the eye could see to the west of Wildersmith.                                                                                                                                                 

I’ve truly never seen anything like it, although such cosmic occurrences have eons of history, I’m just seldom awake to be a part of this brilliance. The flaming redness was short lived as the solar power burned though the celestial mist, but for a few brief minutes I was in awe!                             
I’ve been hearing several reports about a momma moose and her twins up toward end of the Trail. Perhaps there is more than one such iconic threesome up in that neck of the woods, but the Smith’s hadn’t observed any of them until we recently happened upon a traffic stoppage where this big old gal and her young’uns were the reason. Those cocoa brown babies were ever so curious watching momma grab munchies from the swamp bottom. What a photo op for several lucky Trail visitors, “real moose.”                                
There’s a notion black flies might be dwindling a bit, but I can’t see it’s happening around this place. For the record, a little research I found declares there are 150 species of black flies in North America, some of which don’t bite. It’s my guess that most of the biting varieties have been hovering right outside our back door based on the welts on my body, eee gads these things are ornery!                                                                                                                                                   
A reminder from the Chik-Wauk Campus is calling all kids on Tuesday, the 25th. It’s Kids’ day at the Nature Center from 11:000am to 4:00pm for youngsters under 18 and all are welcomed free of charge. Staff will have a variety of hands-on activities all related to the natural world around Chik-Wauk. A parent or guardian must accompany children while engaged at the Nature Center.                                                                                                                                                                          

Also on Tuesday, as are all Tuesdays through August 20, USFS naturalists will present themed topics on the North woods. These events will take place on the Museum front porch from 2:00 to 3:00 pm. All are invited!                                                                                                                                      

A sad note has been received on the passing of one of our Gunflint Trail Neighbors. Ron Hemstad passed from our midst last Saturday evening after begin hospitalized in the Twin Cities with some lingering health issues.                                                                                                                                      

The Hemstad’s have a cabin on the Mile O Pine while one of their daughters, Nancy and husband Dave Seaton are long time owners of Hungry Jack Outfitters. Ron, a career attorney, along with Betty, played a key role in developing the organizational charter of the Gunflint Trail Historical Society. Gunflint Community condolences are extended to Betty, his children, family and many neighborhood friends.                                                                                                                                      

On a happier note, breaking news from the staff at Chik-Wauk, the baby loon and parents have re-appeared, only having moved to another, safer bay, along the Sag Lake corridor to the west. My apologies for blaming the bothersome eagle                                                                                                                      
For WTIP, this is Wildersmith, on the Gunflint Trail, where every day is great, in the cool, calming North woods!


CinnamonBear_Photo by Chikwauk via Facebook.jpg

Wildersmith on the Gunflint - June 14

Wildersmith on the Gunflint     by     Fred Smith          June 14, 2019    
It seems unimaginable, but our north woods universe is at the half-way mark of month six. In a couple days the full “Strawberry Moon” (Ode’imini Giizis) will be lighting up our lives. While by the time we next meet, we’ll also be celebrating the solstice of summer.                                                                      

It’s just impossible to think we will be seeing our longest period of sun time next Friday, and then the slow trek in an opposite direction begins. Guess we can be thankful this astronomical happening is barely noticeable, but then again, based on how rapidly June’s first half went by, is it really as passive as it seems?                                                                                                                                                    
So next weekend we can call it summer and the territory got a warm-up preview for a couple days last week. From this old guy’s point of view, that hot stuff got under my skin pretty quick.                                                                                                                                                                                     

The heat was enough to spurn some new blooming in the yard though and this is good. Forget-me-nots, Columbine and wild strawberry petals popped out overnight as well as a few blossoms on the Honeycrisp tree. Up and down back country roads both Pin Cherry and Juneberry flowers have burst onto the scene mimicking a look of branch coated flakes from a season past.                                                                                                                                                                      

The only thing to temper enjoyment of our floral color exhibit was the big warm-up brought on the first real influx of “Skeeters.” Coupled with their nipping black fly cousins and other un-named irritating pests, life outside of netting hasn’t been the most comfortable. June being designated the month of the “Strawberry Moon” by our Ojibwe neighbors, a gal down in the mid-Trail area has labeled “June, as bug month”, appropriate to say the least.                   

Another note on creepy things has many folks complaining about unusual high numbers of those big black ants. All this unpleasantness however will pass and the beauty of many other aspects of life in wild territory will get us through this time of welts and itching.                                                                           

Plenty of moose sightings have been brought to my attention over the past week including my own observation of long eared juvenile in a Trailside swamp. Another lady from over on Wash-out Road had the “heebie jeebies” scared out of her recently when one stumbled out from the woods in front of her vehicle. Then the obstinate beast proceeded to not allow her passage by taking its half the road out of the middle.                                                                                         

Meanwhile, a couple down the road report a cross-fox has been making nightly visits for trail cam photo ops. And the Smith’s experienced a first bear sighting along the upper Trail in the past few days. Another report from the director at Chik-Wauk tells of and uncomfortable meeting with an upper Trail cinnamon Bruno who’s been hanging around several places.                 

A birthing announcement came from the same gal at the Museum Campus on June 6 with the Loon egg hatching, just one egg I’m told. Apparently the new family was doing well after they vacated the nest platform until breaking news four days later revealed the parents were heard calling and more recently observed swimming around without baby being on board.     
When it appeared the Loon’s had won this natural survival encounter to extend a new generation into being, another element of creation (likely an Eagle) had a sad, but final say in the predator/prey scheme of things.                                                                                                                                                    
Speaking of an eagle, this segues right into the first Nature Center Sunday program of the season on the Chik-Wauk Campus. The program will begin at 2:00pm with a special presentation on Minnesota’s Raptors. Chris Tolman will be the presenter and is said to have some live raptors as part of her program. Admission to this birds of prey event is free, but donations of programming appreciation are accepted.                                                                                                                                                                                                                       
Threatening skies and rain didn’t squelch excitement for the annual shrimp boil last Sunday. If you didn’t make it, you missed another great sampling of southern cuisine in the North Country setting.                                                                                                                                               
Thanks to the Schloot’s from Cross River Lodge for putting together yet another scrumptious feed. Kudos is also extended to the GTHS and the Volunteer Fire Department for the organizational details along with Voyageur Brewing Co. and many Gunflint Community bakers for their contributions to the bake sale part of the event’s festivities.                                                                                                        

For WTIP, this is Wildersmith, on the Gunflint Trail, where every day is great, as the Gunflint Community celebrates each and every one.


Photo by Abigail Lynn on Unsplash.jpg

Wildersmith on the Gunflint - June 7

Wildersmith on the Gunflint    by     Fred Smith
June 7, 2019    

It seems odd, but not too surprising, I’m scooping the Gunflint Trail and one week of the new month has already passed us by. When I last reported it was May, guess I missed a week somehow.                                                                                                                                                                            

With summer un-officially declared on Memorial Day weekend, the season is pretty much in full swing now with the school year ending for local students. Further, confirmation is seen in the Gunflint forest with leaf out complete and snow now gone from along the Mile O Pine.                                                                                                                                                                                         

The magnificence of this wild territory is borne out in the rituals of each season, with autumns’ collage of color, winters’ white and now summer green. A drive along the Trail this time of year seems so striking after the mono of winter. What a contrast between the bright deciduous leaves and deep green of the coniferous forest as a back-drop to sky blue water and heavens. A scan across our rugged landscape presents a glowing penetration of magical chlorophyll revival.                                                                                                                                                               

Another aspect of our turning green has caught forest folk’s attention. There’s something in the air and it isn’t the “Sound of Music.” I’m talking tree pollen. It’s as if we’re having an invisible dust storm. The hard to see collection on everything forest is most easily observed when one gets into the vehicle and has to turn on the windshield wipers to whisk the chartreuse powder away. My take on this springtime happening is the stuff is nearly as annoying as black flies. Luckily allergic reactions for yours truly are not a problem with this component of the natural world.                                                                                                                              

Atmospheric conditions over the past week have been on the verge of being a bit more “summer-ish.” Not too surprising though, a few mornings on June’s opening days found us near frost at Wildersmith, necessitating the comfort of warmth from the wood burning stove.                        
The other factor of Gunflint weather had been AWOL, and the area was in need of a precipitation re-fill. Fortunately, the rain gods broke loose with a nice rain in the last few days improving a crunchy situation.                                                                                                                                                                                          

A trifecta of activities going on up the Trail, highlight this second weekend of month six. To kick things off, the annual Boundary Waters Expo commences its two day run at 9:00 am Saturday with a full schedule of events concluding with a bonfire and speaker as the sun begins its descent. Then on Sunday, more activities with speakers, exhibits and things to see and learn take off at 10:30 and run until mid-afternoon at 2:30. This has always been a fun time for wilderness enthusiasts with notable outdoor experts sharing insights, the best and newest in gear exhibits and a gathering of friends exchanging wild land experiences.                                                                      

The BW Expo concludes just in time for attendees to trek on up to end of the Trail for the annual Shrimp Boil. The event is a fundraiser sponsored by the Gunflint Trail Historical Society to benefit operations at the Chik-Wauk Museum Campus. Beginning at 4:00 pm and running until 6:00, it will be held at the Seagull Lake Community Center. In addition to the scrumptious dinner fixins’, a bake sale will be going on in a dining room corner with area sweet treat artisans donating their goods for purchase. All Gunflint Community residents and visitors are welcome.                                                                                                                                                                                   

If this isn’t enough, activities spill over into Monday, June 10 as the GTHS has its first membership gathering of the summer.  Held at the Seagull Lake Community Center, it will be the annual meeting, commencing at 1:30.  Following the Society business review and election of new Trustees, long time mid-trail resident Ina Huggenvik will be sharing historical perspectives – titled “One Man’s Dream.” Sweets, coffee and conversation will follow. All current members and wannabe members are invited.                                                                                               

From the wild neighborhood, folks up the hill from Wildersmith had a “Bruno” come for a morning deck-side visit a few days ago. The stopover was brief and with no reported bear shenanigans.  At Wildersmith, we are still tolerating “Woody” the chuck. The skittish critter played peek-a-boo with Mrs. Wildersmith the other day from under the nearby wood shed. Then during a recent task up at Chik-Wauk, I came across the calling card from a moose. While finding such is not too unusual, this scene differed in that the lumpy sample was left on top of an over turned boat near the Water Craft Exhibit Building.                                                                                               

Another update from the Loon’s nest near the Chik-Wauk Campus, finds the iconic Minnesota couple hanging in there amidst harassment from both annoying black flies and a bothersome eagle. If they are able to survive these nasty assaults, chick hatching should occur anytime during the next few days.                                                                                                                                              

In closing this week, a HELP WANTED posting has been extended throughout the territory from the GTHS. Help is needed for supervision in any of the three visitor facilities on the Chik-Wauk campus this 2019 season. Employment can come in the order of either full (up to 30 hours per week) or part-time {flexible job sharing (6 hour days) with others}. If interested see the Chik-Wauk on Facebook or for more details and application filing.                                                                   

For WTIP, this is Wildersmith, on the Gunflint Trail, where every day is great, in the…”sum…sum…summertime!”


Big Fish photo submitted by Fred Smith.jpeg

Wildersmith on the Gunflint - May 31, 2019

Wildersmith on the Gunflint     by     Fred Smith       
May 31, 2019    

Spring along the Gunflint Trail has had its good days and not so good since our last meeting on the radio. The Memorial Day weekend had few moments of sunny glory only to be stymied by dismal cold and dampness most of the time.                                                                                                                               

As we bid May adieu, and welcome June, odds are pretty good, as we head toward the Solstice, this seasonal re-birth will be much improved over the harsh past nine weeks. By the time this scoop airs, our last patch of snow will be gone from along the Mile O Pine. And in spite of our lingering winter character, sprouts continue emerging, Squill and Marsh Marigolds are blooming, fiddleheads are uncoiling along back country roads and infant leaves are filling in forest voids.                                                                                                                                                      

June finds many residents returning from their snow bird locations. The past week has seen the wilderness quiet succumb to the drone of engines on both lakes and land.                                             

There were so many angler rigs at the Gunflint Lake watercraft access last weekend, parking was at a premium. Vehicles spilled out onto South Gunflint Lake Road like I’ve never seen before. Such was also the case in parking facilities at Seagull Outfitters and Sag Lake Landing as well.                                                                                                                                                                                           

If this early visitor activity is a sign of things to come, the economic impact for area businesses looks to be bright as the summer sun. Best wishes to all for a great summer of Gunflint hospitality.                                                                                                                                                       

Speaking for the Gunflint Trail Scenic Byway Committee, I wish to thank both lake property owner associations and many individuals for their participation in the Trail clean-up last week. Thanks are also extended to the County Highway Department for picking up the debris and collection bags left by the volunteer “worker bees.”                                                                                      

Let’s hope Trail users will do a better job of keeping litter in their vehicles for proper disposal during this next year. Such disregard for this beautiful place is unconscionable!                                 

I’m sad to report on the days where we have experienced the glory of “old Sol”, the biting airborne insects are in a harassing frenzy. Whereas there has been much griping about the cold of April and May, one has to admit it held the annoying critters at bay. Now it appears we are going to pay for it.                                                                                                                                                        

The lake water remains quite cold to which I can attest. Putting the dock and boat lift into the Gunflint waters was the order of business at Wildersmith for the Decoration Day weekend. With H20 temps holding in the low to mid-forties, I donned my wet suit, and with the help of my resolute neighbor, we shivered our way to completing the job. Now it’s time to enjoy some Canadian sunsets over Gunflint Lake.                                                                                                                           

While there are a plethora of superb northland photographers capturing the wonders of border country woods, a simple Trail camera located along the Sag Bay at Chik-Wauk seized a moment of animal majesty. The subject was a Canadian Lynx poised in investigatory pose as if it had been choreographed for the shutter click. The digital was placed on Facebook for the world to see, but better yet, why not come up to the Nature Center at Chik-Wauk and view the pic first-hand.                                                                                                                                                         
It was confirmed a day or so ago at Wildersmith that bears do poop in the woods. So we definitely know there have been dark night visitors in this neighborhood. During the daytime, we’ve been entertained by a part-time wood chuck. Whereas there are no garden munchies for “Woody”, it has taken over a ground level patch where squirrels get a daily seed allotment. It’s been a bit un-nerving for my “squirrelly and chippy” contingent.                                                                         

On a closing note, while our Holiday weekend weather was not as hoped, fishing at least, for some involved catching. Neighbors down the road had two days of good luck with “lakers” down on North Lake, but the biggest and best of all was a “hawg” Northern Pike caught right off their Gunflint Lake dock. See the website post ( of my Wildersmith Column (drop down on Community Voices) for verification of this forty inch plus, twenty-five pound surprise.                                                                                                                                                                         
For WTIP, this is Wildersmith on the Gunflint Trail, where every day is great, with a caressing spirit of the natural world right outside our back door!


Wildersmith_Photo by Fran Smith

Wildersmith on the Gunflint - May 24, 2019

Wildersmith on the Gunflint     by     Fred Smith     May 24, 2019    
The Memorial Day weekend sends us off into the final segment of month five, and unless conditions have changed in the last few days, one would find it hard to believe the territory is at the un-official start of summer. The past week has been two steps forward and one step back for this blooming season.                                                                                                                      

While spring has been working to take complete control, we at Wildersmith had a morning where frosty roof tops and a little making ice was a reminder of days gone by. So it isn’t over until it’s over, and yes there’s still snowy evidence in a few places.                                                

Meanwhile, on the days we have stepped forward, slow gains are being made on the green-up. As one gazes across the rocky landscape, a green haze is hanging just below the skyline. And in spite of those days when we have stepped back, the verdant fog is growing by the day.                                                                                                                                                                                           

In the bustle of living in organized territory, I seemed not to have had time to catch many of simple wonders of this re-birth time. However, in the golden age of retirement, I find wonder in keeping a watchful eye on a juvenile birch tree outside the kitchen window. The once green tipped buds bulge ever so slightly with each passing morning in anticipation of soon being a grown up leaf. What a joy to be a part of Natures’ unfolding.                                                                                                      

The chilly days of the past week or so have not slowed the return of hummingbirds to the upper Trail. While we have not seen any at Wildersmith, neighbors have had them humming about in search of a little sweetness.                                                                                                                  

A friend over on Loon Lake reports one flew in through the open door of his wood shop. The impatient bird zipped around his head as a reminder it was back and then headed out. Recognizing a call to duty, he hustled right out and proceeded to get the nectar jar filled as this diminutive north woods tough guy summoned. Let alone several four legged neighborhood species, even the birds have many of us in a caring mood.                                                                                                          

During one of many recent trips up to Trails end, a couple neighborhood buddies and I had the rare pleasure of meeting up with a cross fox. In twenty years of living in the woods I had never observed one. Our sighting took place on the Sag Lake Trail, so perhaps folks residing in that neighborhood have seen this handsome critter, and if not they might be on the look-out for it.                                                                                                                                                                        
In the week following the fishing opener, the Gunflint Trail has come alive with visitors. It’s as if someone opened the gate at bottom of the hill in Grand Marais. Most of the countless vehicles are either towing or toting water craft of some variety. Without regard for the un-summerlike weather last weekend, the magnetism of this place in the universe has people clamoring to hit the lakes and hiking trails for a bit of wilderness calm and adventure.                                                                                       

With the growing visitor influx, it is timely that the Gunflint Trail Historical Society announces the opening of the Chik-Wauk Campus. Now beginning its tenth season, gates open Saturday, at 10:00am.                                                                                                                                      

2019 is an exciting time in history of the Society as the Campus of Gunflint Trail history opens its long awaited Watercraft Exhibit Building (The WEB). This display of vintage canoes, boats and motors and the role such watercraft played in lives of early settlers, is set in a new timber frame building along the entrance lane to the Museum and Nature Center. Not only are the exhibits awesome, the structure housing them has a contemporary history of its own.                                               

If this is not enough excitement, in the Museum, a new temporary exhibit is being presented. The 2019 display features the “life and times of Tommy banks” and his unlikely friendship with pioneer resident Billy Needham. Tommy was a bootlegger and gangster from Minneapolis in the 1930’s who had a cabin on the Northshore of Hungry Jack Lake.                                             

Folks will want to plan a visit to this magical place at end of the Trail in the coming weeks for all kinds of adventures, from territorial history to many energizing Nature Center activities for both young and old. And speaking of things new, in the Nature Center, the GTHS welcomes, Ed Moran who takes over naturalist duties. Don’t miss stopping by to greet the newest Chik-Wauk staffer.                                                                                                                                                                             

For WTIP, this is Wildersmith, on the Gunflint Trail, where every day is great, watching the brown earth turn green!


Fran and Fred Smith_Photo by CJ Heithoff 300x350.jpg

Wildersmith on the Gunflint - May 17, 2019

Wildersmith on the Gunflint     by     Fred Smith      May 17, 2019    

May is spinning out of control as we head into its second half with the company of the Ojibwe, “budding flowers” full moon this weekend.                                                                                                  

Although my declaration of spring doesn’t match up with the calendar, I proclaim its official in the Gunflint Lake neighborhood as of last Saturday, May 11. The lake still had some icy odds and ends jammed up by the wind at the far end to the east. But for all practical purposes, the “old gal” was ninety-nine and nine-tenths percent rippling as of last Saturday evening. Remnant patches of snow remain in shaded area as the only sign there even was a winter. And to further affirm its’ over, my dear wife said it’s time to take down the “let it snow” sign and get lawn chairs onto the deck.                                                                                                                                                                          
Ice out is always a big relief at the Wildersmith place as the crystalline rush to get out of here has often played havoc with my household lake water system. The icy disappearance act was gentler this time in spite of piling up considerable chards against our shore and on top of the pipe encasement. So all that worry is behind us now, and this area may have had its last below freezing night.    
The annual concern about wildfire, as the territory dries out this time of year, prompted action to get sprinkler system pump hoses into the water. With great help from a friend down the road and his cousin, my task is now done. It did require wading into the water, which was thirty-seven degrees at the time. With leaky waders, I assure you it got my attention and made for hasty exodos after several entries, there was no monkeying around!                                                    
A heads-up to all, get those WFS systems ready ASAP while we wait for the tempering green-up of our landscape.                                                                                                                                                                          

It seems some things just fall right in line as the hard water gives way. An example was a mosquito attack on the first full day after. I suppose the surveillance crew of last week got the buzz out, and I became a prime target while finishing up the lakeshore water work last Sunday. Sadly, this bugging issue is only going to get worse over the next few weeks, so I’ll be trading the parka for netting any day.                                                                                                                                                         
I’ve received several reports of Loon returns over the past week. Word from the staff up at Chik-Wauk confirms those residents have come in and are back on the nest too. With a little good luck avoiding raptor predation and black fly terrorism, we’ll be seeing a new generation of chicks from that nest sometime during June week one.                                                                                            
Meanwhile, word comes from the mid-Trail neighborhood telling of bear activity on the upswing. Guess, there’s a big “papa bear” rumbling around and a “momma” with her yearling cubs making candid appearances. Bear scat has been discovered in the Mile O Pine neighborhood but no “Bruno” observations yet, fine with me.                                                                                                                  

Moose are on the loose with a number of sightings, and even more evidence is reported on back country roads of their meanderings. One would suppose calves are coming into the world, and if not here already, they will be soon.                                                                                                                 
The hum of outboard motors broke the silence of lake country as dozens of boats sped by in search of favorite finny hang-outs last weekend. The only person I’ve talked to indicated excitement to get out on the water, but limited catching. The deep waters of Gunflint and other big bodies are just too cold for much walleye action this early. However, I’m confident luck may have been better on lakes shallower and perhaps warmer from earlier ice out.                                                                                

Whereas many anglers find North Lake a catching paradise, I’m told they were stymied to get from Gunflint into North Lake because of the ice jam at Gunflints’ sand beach end. This problem is likely history now, as this scoop airs.                                                                                          

For WTIP, this is Wildersmith, on the Gunflint Trail, where every day is great, as springs’ bloom hankers for warmth and rain!


Fran & Fred Smith - Photo by CJ Heithoff

Wildersmith on the Gunflint - May 10, 2019

Wildersmith on the Gunflint     by     Fred Smith   May 10, 2019    
The Smiths’ are back in the woods following a jaunt to Iowa for a visit with our daughter, many old friends and a weekend at America’s Athletic Classic, the Drake Relays. It’s always great to be home in the serenity of forty-nine degrees north. The mayhem of traffic and humanity in semi-organized civilization is culture shock for us woods dwellers.                                                                                                                     

While spring has been stumbling along in the northland, it was a delight to see green grass and trees trimmed in a new generation of leaves in the Hawkeye State.                                                 

With my partiality toward winter, it was disappointing to miss the beauty of the brief cold season resurgence while away. However, I have no regrets about not being around to move the wet heavy stuff. “Mother Nature” had taken care of snow removal by the time we pulled onto the Mile O Pine, leaving me with only minimal sidewalk scooping. A side effect finds melting the recent eight or so inches of snow has given mud a boost on back country roads, and further complicating growing pot holes.                                                                                                                                                         

Spring might have her act together in border country as we head into this Mothers’ Day weekend, and the Minnesota angling opener. Our good earth is mostly bare, with the only snow remaining being that heaped up in winter plowing efforts. By this time next week, we may be able to close the winter chapter along the Mile O Pine. I’ll let you all know when observing 2018-19 winter character is no longer possible, remembering there has been snow on the ground in some fashion since the last days of October.                                                                               
Meanwhile rivers and streams are gushing abundantly toward lakes, ponds and wetlands with cold mountain run-off. Pussy willows buds are puffing with zest and green tipped buds are showing on a few birch and aspen.  Early season sprouts of rhubarb and chives are piecing the top soil on the sunny side of the Wildersmith house and daffodils are up in other warm confines.                                                                                                                                                                                         
On a not so positive note regarding the soon to bloom season, I was found to be under surveillance of the first mosquito a couple days ago. It was one of those big “daddy’s,” just buzzing by checking me out, and likely headed back to headquarters for a report to the troops on my availability as a blood donor.                                                                                                                                         
Although I’ve been out of the area for the better part of two weeks, going into this report, I have yet to hear of any bear annoyances. They have to be out and about though so care is being exercised to not tempt them into making bad decisions. In the meantime I’ve observed a couple other wintertime nappers, those being chipmunks and wood chucks. Every critter and everything is in the wake up mode.                                                                                                                                                                           
With dreams of catching the “big one” this weekend, fisher people can relax in regard knowing ice is out on most lakes of the territory. As I commenced this scribing last Sunday evening, the Gunflint Gal was still a big ice cube although it has broken from the shore, west to east, as far as this mid-lake neighborhood. For the record, the Gunflint has been under ice cover for five months (since December 6th).                                                                                                                                 

All conditions being considered, it’s a good bet this body will be open too as watercraft are launched to kick-off the season. Good luck to all with a word of caution, as the water is dangerously cold. Make good decisions and take no chances in boat or canoe.                                                                                                                                            

A recent interview with WTIP news director, Joe Friedrichs, and the County Planning and Zoning Administrator, revealed consideration for amending the Gunflint Trail ATV usage ordinance. The plan involves changing the current limited travel portions to open/unlimited usage from Grand Marais to the west end of County road 92 at Iron Lake (some 35 miles).                                                                                  
Public comments on the issue to the P & Z (Planning Commission) are being accepted with a public hearing expected in June (though no date has been set). It can be assumed after P & Z examines and listens to public comments the issue will be passed on to County Commissioners for a future agenda.                                                                                                                               
Interested parties, either in support of, or in opposition to this ordinance amendment, should make their feelings known ASAP to the Planning & Zoning office in the Courthouse (in writing or by email). An expression of your opinions on this issue to our district Commissioner would seem prudent too.                                                                                                                                   

For WTIP, this is Wildersmith, on the Gunflint Trail, where every day is great, even more so on the opening day of fishing season!


Crystal Icicle_JLS Photography-Alaska.jpg

Wildersmith on the Gunflint - April 19, 2019

Wildersmith on the Gunflint     by     Fred Smith
April 19, 2019 
Month four is screaming by as we celebrate the “Maple Sugar Moon” in the north woods. While atmospheric conditions in April can be unpredictable, it looks as though things may have settled into a more tolerable state heading into this weekend.                                                                           

Following the near miss of that so called “bomb cyclone” along the Gunflint Trail, it is possible we’ve seen winters’ last gasp. Whereas the Village had a more intense experience with the snow and violent winds, we up at end of the Trail escaped the brunt with two to four snowy inches and minimal wind activity. I guess we should count ourselves blessed with not too much winter hysteria this time around.                                                                                                                                                                                     

At the same time, this neighborhood and others in the upper Trail territory enjoyed the beauty of white ecstasy for a couple days as “Mother Nature” put a band aid on springs’ naked unsightliness. Sadly, we are starting all over again with renewed melting. Just when there were a few dry spots taking over on back country roads, we are back into squishy going again.                                                  

Speaking of melting, as the area heads toward the month’s last segment, folks are talking of lake ice. During the warmth of March, it looked as though ice would not last too long. But with winter raising its hackles over the past three weeks, one cannot be too sure just when “Sky Blue Waters” will be dashing our shores. Here on Gunflint Lake, we’ve even made some ice a few mornings in the last two weeks.                                                                                                        

Some walleye anglers have expressed concern area lakes might remained locked up on opening day, May 10. It seems doubtful to yours truly, although remembering last year the ice went out on the Gunflint gal the morning of opener. So it does, and has happened before that fisher people are nudging ice out of the way to dip a line.                                                                           

While I have yet to hear of any ursine encounters out this way, one has to wonder if on the occasional sunny days, Bruno’s aren’t rubbing the sleep from their eyes. If they woke up over the past weekend however, and stuck their heads out to falling snow, perhaps they went back to bed. In any event, I’ve begun to curtail some of my seed distribution just for good measure, and urge neighbors to do the same                                                                                                                                                

As I mentioned our occasional warm sunny days, it seems buds on some of the Aspen and Birch are bulging with excitement, then on a day when we’ve held at or below freezing they don’t appear as puffy about the goings-on.                                                                                                                                           
 I did see some pussy willow buds along the Trail near the South Brule River Bridge last week. One might wonder if the gray pearls aren’t thankful the creator blessed them with warm fuzzy coats during our recent winter interlude.                                                                                                                    
I have yet to see any robins in this neighborhood, but folks in town mention they have arrived. On another avian note, recently I got a kick out of a quartet of visiting Crows, following the new snow. Talk about contrast, the scene was as stark black and white as nature could bring into being.                                                                                                                                                                     

A couple ebony beauties were rooting through the snow in search of sustenance remains. Plowing along the feed trough, they came up seemingly annoyed with globs of white stuck to their beaks. Apparently out of sorts with their white snoots, there was considerable shaking all about, and conversation from their brothers /sisters, perhaps teasing them.                                    

In closing, while the deciduous members of the northern forest are a ways from waving their green hellos, the coniferous family is rapidly turning their winter drab to brighter energizing summer shades. It’s more than noticeable on a day of sunshine.                                                   

And speaking of our forest sentinels, it’s pretty easy to take them for granted when there are uncounted zillions as far as the eye can see. I had the pleasure of reading an article in the spring periodical of the National Wildlife Federation on the critical things trees do for our eco-system. I have been aware of some, however, the author and researchers made several points I had never considered.  It is suggested reading, either online or in the library, and will provide evermore reverence to your future walks in the woods.                                                                                                                         

For WTIP, this is Wildersmith, on the Gunflint Trail, where every day is great, regardless of our worldly turmoil!



Wildersmith on the Gunflint - April 12, 2019

Wildersmith on the Gunflint     by     Fred Smith    April 12, 2019    

The sprint toward real “Zigwan” (Ojibwe, spring) in the north woods has been putting distance between itself and winter over the past seven days. In spite of another big snow forecast, one brief dash of snow and perhaps our last subzero morning has given way to April showers since last weekend.                                                                                                                            

This in mind, winter character has diminished somewhat around the territory, but muddy roads have intensified. While a few days of Gunflint sunshine have been warming, those with clouds have remained on the cool side of the ledger, hanging out in the mid-thirties, damp and raw.                                                                                                                                                                                  

The Gunflint-Loon Lake wolf pack has been hanging out along the south shore of Gunflint Lake recently, after being quietly obscure for some time. A few nights ago there was a genuine howling not far from Wildersmith. One can’t say whether the concert was in celebration of spring, a calling to feast or some other territorial alert. Then again, maybe they were announcing the birth of pack pups. Regardless, tracks along the Wildersmith shore confirm it was some kind of gathering.                                                                                                                      

Next door neighbors reported a recent sightseeing trip to Trails end turned out to be more exciting than expected. Their vehicle was brought to a surprising stop by a moose strolling along the black top.                                                                                                                                                              

The ensuing stoppage found the moose approach the vehicle for some investigation, actually getting up close and personal for a sniff of this metallic monster. One might wonder if this could have been the same moose reported to have licked road salt residue from a stopped vehicle a few weeks ago.                                                                                                                                              

Much as we humans are now able to shed a layer of winter garment, this viewing revealed the north woods icon was also in the early stages of shedding its winter coat, another sure sign the moose concur, spring is official.                                                                                                           

Adding to our melting delight at the Smith place, our serpentine of slipperiness has finally surrendered its ice. Although there is still ice and snow on the fringes, we can get up and down the driveway both on foot and in the vehicle without cleats and white knuckles.                                         
Another notable of the warming season is detected at the base of trees in the yard. As per usual, those hollow bowls in the snow are expanding by the day as warming bark and running sap exposes the surrounding earth in rustic brown.                                                                                   

One more sign of our border country times was discovered since our last meeting. The first Arachnid was caught scurrying across our kitchen the other day. Whereas everything in creation has an eco-purpose, these creepy crawlers can’t escape giving some the “willies.”                                                                                      

Though there is romance in dreams of warmer days and greening landscape ahead, the season at hand is perhaps the ugliest time of year. Months of crystal pureness has dwindled to unveil a zillion items having amassed on the forest floor over winter, making for some serious unsightliness.                                                                                                                                                                                                    
“Mother Nature’s” glory is rooted in verdant shades of summer, the mosaic of autumn tapestry and of course the marsh mellow cast of winter. In spring however, there’s just no covering up both the natural muss and humankind mistakes.                                                                                         

Then again, beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. With the majesty of this great place in the universe budding with an enduring strategy of re-birth, yes, “hope, does spring eternal!”                                          

For WTIP, this is Wildersmith, on the Gunflint Trail, where every day is great, as natural events energize whatever the season.